Go With the Flow - er, Snow (Grand Teton NP)

Saturday, 28 January 2023, Jackson WY

I awoke refreshed after sleeping in a bed again, a welcome change from yesterday's 2:55 a.m. flight. Now I must arrange today's experience in Grand Teton.

When I'd first investigated my options for the park in mid-November, a ranger-guided snowshoe hike at 1:30 every Saturday afternoon appealed to me. Going to the park website this morning, I noticed the fine print: "Reservations required." Ahh, but the reservation desk had not opened until early December, and I apparently forgot to check back in. No chance to call in today, either - the park office is not open on winter weekends.

I could take the assertive approach and assume that I HAD made a reservation, simply neglecting to record that fact. But that still left the logistical problem of arranging a taxi ride to the park, and then calling a taxi for my return. Besides, I'd already checked off 'showshoe' as a unique experience at Kenai Fjords, and given how ungainly it felt, I looked forward to a new activity to struggle at today.

Okay, return to my very first, pre-ranger-hike idea - cross-country skiing in Grand Teton. In my younger days, my vacations had always revolved around downhhill skiing, but I had gone out a handful of times on skinny skis. Granted, I hadn't attempted X-C skiing for over three decades, but that wouldn't deter me.

That still left the logistics of getting there and back. A quick check of outfitter websites showed one - EcoTours - that had a three-hour guided ski tour in the park for that afternoon, transport included. "Call now for details!" or to get a message that they'll return my call.

No problem. I've skied before, and know the basics. I can wander downtown, rent some skis, arrange taxis - how hard can that be? Decision made, I started working on details. Before I got far, though, EcoTours called back - they had space on today's tour. "Check with the Skinny Ski shop to make sure they have rentals available, and we'll pick you up at the warming center at 1:30." Only later would I realize the bullet I had dodged.

At the appointed time and place, the EcoTours van pulled up, and out hopped a young, energetic man with Hispanic features. "Hello! I'm Rafael, and will be your guide today!"

"Rafael! As in Nadal!" I offered.

"Yes," he responded without missing a beat. "Like the tennis player! And the Italian Renaissance painter, and the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle!" I liked him immediately.

The other couple on the tour stepped up and introduced themselves. Matt and Erin had taken a long weekend trip, flying out from Cincinnati to play in the snow for a few days. Rafael asked about their skill level on touring skis, and they admitted never having tried it before. Looking to me, they said, "And you're probably an expert, right?"

"I'd like to say I'm an old hand at this," I replied, "but really, I'm just old." That earned a hearty laugh from the three of them.

Rafael drove us the thirteen miles to the park, stopping along the way as we passed the National Elk Refuge, a 25,000 acre protected land stretching between Jackson and the park. As we drove along, we could see a thin line of brown - rocks? dirt? - at the base of a bluff to the east.

Once Rafael stopped, though, and set up his spotter scope, we could see that the brown was a herd of elk (along with a lone coyote loping past).

Up to 7,500 elk will spend the winter here, on the average. (The refuge offers sleigh rides to see the herd up close, but I did not have time for that built into my schedule.)

I became very popular with Matt and Erin as we entered Grand Teton NP. The park charges an entrance fee of $20 per person - but my Lifetime Senior pass grants entrance for up to four people in any vehicle. They thanked me for the savings as Rafael drove the van further to the 'Road Closed' sign, where the remainder of the park road is groomed for skiing.

He showed us how to mount our boots to the skis, and gave us pointers on skiing. What little blue sky we had seen on the drive up had disappeared, with clouds obscuring the surrounding hills and light snow beginning to fall. Soon enough we were off, following the tracks made by others. Many skiers shared the trail with us, including one woman with her two dogs on leash.

I took the early lead as we set out, executing a shuffle step, trying to get a little glide in on each stride. My muscles vaguely recalled the motion from those times decades ago, but the fresh powder overwhelmed any old experience I had retained. Rafael hung back to help Erin get used to the motion. Soon Matt passed me, and before we knew it, Erin had blazed ahead of both of us. When I remarked on her burst of speed, Matt shrugged and said, "She's a runner."

I soon took the first of my tumbles, and quickly re-discovered that getting back on my feet with long sticks attached to my feet challenged me. Each time I fell, the Ohioans got a bit further ahead, then waited for me. I felt guilty about holding them up ... but I did save them $40!

After a short while, we passed four people striking out through the ungroomed snow, toward the trees. They stood in a row, lined up in a track that was a good foot tall, looking lost. Rafael bade them good luck, saying, "You'll have a great time!"

We continued another few hundred yards on the groomed trail, practicing our stride, me practicing getting back up. The Rafael led us off-trail also. We turned to the west, with Rafael in the lead, cutting us a pathway. I soon discovered that getting up after a fall in deep powder adds a whole new layer of complexity,

so Rafael circled back to help me as Erin again took the lead.

At least we had fun cavorting in all the fresh snow. I mounted my GoPro and started taking video of us making tracks. Rafael gave us occasional commentary on our surroundings, having us chew on pine needles, talking of moose's solitary behavior, and other topics.

When Erin faltered, Rafael cut a new trail, even though he also struggled with the depth of the the snow.

Remember the story of how Samson's strength came about through his long hair (which Delilah then cut off)? Apparently, my skills derived from the GoPro. For almost twenty minutes, I filmed our (slow) progress, and didn't fall a single time.

But eventually Rafael decided it was time to head back, so i pocketed the GoPro and we retraced our tracks back to the groomed road.

I suffered a couple more difficult-to-get-up-from falls (at least I always had a soft landing!), while Matt and Erin looked like pros, skiing full speed ahead as they headed back to the van. Looks like I just scored another private tour!

Once Rafael got me back to the groomed trail, the other two were nowhere in sight. With more hints from Rafael, I now concentrated on my stride. Soon I felt a small amount of confidence with a short glide on each stride. As we knocked off the mile or so back to the van, a thought flashed through my head: "Maybe I can complete this entire stretch without falling!"

I should have known better. Immediately I fell again, and then once more for good measure before reaching the van. [I had dubbed this whole trip my Winter Tour, but Falls Tour might fit better.] Matt and Erin waited for us at the end, warming up as the snow continued to flurry. All in all, a good time! (And I thank the stars above I hadn't tried to solo on the skis today.)

Ahh, time to get back to the room and shower off a couple of day's worth of grime, before enjoying company at dinner. When I'd booked my time in Wyoming, I worked through Jackson Hole Central Reservations, where a wonderful woman named Mariah reserved me a motel room and tomorrow's Yellowstone adventure. I had regaled her with the story of my challenge, duly impressing her. So much so that a few days ago, she sent me a follow-up email:

I noticed your trip out here to Jackson Hole is coming up tomorrow. I booked your trip a couple months ago and you have had the most interesting story that I’ve heard so far in this job. I wish you a beautiful travel out here. I have been inspired by your website, and I would love to come chat with you if you find yourself at a local bar or hangout looking for conversation or adventure... I will not be offended if you don’t. Either way, enjoy your trip and let me know if there is anything you need!

What a wonderful invitation! I arranged to meet her for dinner, letting her recommend a favorite restaurant. She suggested the Momo Everest, a Nepalese café - I hadn't eaten Nepalese food for years. Unfortunately, the café was dark, so we instead wandered to a Thai restaurant a block away. Fantastic food and stimulating conversation. Mariah's enthusiasm for Jackson Hole shone in her eyes, and she talked of her future. "This is my first winter here, and it's quite different from the summer." She mentioned that her job is remote-ready, so she can choose where she lives. (After all, Jackson is known for housing costs that have escalated out of the reach of most people - limited supply, heavy demand.)

We had a wonderful dinner, then she walked me back to my hotel. A quick hug later, and I was ready to dive into bed - my 5:10 a.m. wake-up call for tomorrow's snowmobiling adventure is going to come early!